Peering Prop (Or Hitcher)
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This was based off the same mechanism as our
plank walker prop we used for our 2007 haunt. Instead of a plank walker, I wanted
either a skeleton that peers around an object, like a tombstone, or a hitch hiking prop. This is a basic how to for the foundation
of either prop. Then you can make some additional modifications to make a hitch hiking prop.
If I need to elaborate on something, or add more pictures
please let me know. (jeff.a.baird(AT)gmail.com) |
Parts I used:
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| Step 1: I placed the 4" 3/4" piece of wood on one edge of the plywood base. I placed it 8 1/2" from one edge, and 11 1/2" from the other edge. Then placed one side of the hinge on the edge of the wood, and placed three grabber screws through the hinge, through the 3/4" wood into the plywood, as in the picture. The other side of the hinge attaches to the other 3/4" piece of wood, and to the 41" 3/4" PVC. I placed two grabber screws vertically, one through the center hole of the hinge, through the wood into the bottom of the PVC. The second screw I placed several inches higher, through the wood, into the PVC. This is easier if you predrill the holes. This secures the PVC to the hinge, and the hinge to the plywood base. This PVC is what you'll place your blucky over. |
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| Step 2: Mount the motor to one of the 2X4's. For most the details on working with a wiper motor, go to my
wiper motor page: http://www.my-mania.com/halloween/wipermotor.html.
There won't be a need to replace the crank arm for this prop. |
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| Step 3: Place the 2X4 not attached to the wiper motor to the plywood base. I placed mine about 16 1/2" from one
side, adn about 4" from the other, as in the picture. The idea here is when you mount the motor, it will
be offset a little from where the hinged PVC is. Placing the screws from the bottom, up into the 2x4 helps ensure that the 2x4
is secured well to the base. |
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| Step 4: The other 2x4 is attached perpendicular to the one attached to the base, as in the picture. The motor should be facing
so the crank arm is the direction of the hinged PVC. To attach it to the other 2x4, I predrilled holes at an angle to go through
both 2x4's, then drilled grabber screws into the holes. |
| Step 5: The end of the crank arm on the motor has a small ball. In one end of the 23" 1/4"
PVC, you want to drill a hole just big enough to be able to force the end of the PVC over that ball. If you get the
hole too big, then it won't stay on. If you have trouble getting it over the knob, but can manage with some
taps with a hammer, then it's about right. I used a 5/16" drill bit, and slowly enlarged the hole, until I
could force it over the knob. On the opposite end of the PVC, but on the same side, drill a normal hole
with the 5/16" drill bit. |
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| Step 6: With that same drill bit, drill two holes in the 3/4" PVC at 7" and 10 1/2" from the bottom of the PVC.
Depending on how far you want the prop to lean, you'll use different holes. Attach the two pieces of PVC together
with the machine screw. Two nuts are used, because you can tighten them against each other to help keep it from
wiggling loose over time. If you use the lower hole the prop will lean down farther than if you use the higher
hole. If you'd like to experiment with how much movement to get, you can try holding the 1/4" PVC at different heights
while the motor is running.
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| Step 7: Everything is now connected, and you should see the PVC leaning when you plug in
the motor. You can then attach the blucky to the PVC, and pose it how you want. To attach my blucky, I cut a hole through the center of each section
of the blucky's body, and slid the PVC up through it. I then used misc grabber screws to secure it to the PVC, and to start posing it.
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| Other pictures of the mechanism from different angles.
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